Holi – Gujhias, and a Dash of Nostalgia

While I was growing up in Sultanpur in the Avadh region of UP, preparation for Holi would start almost a month in advance with potato and sabudana (pearl sago) papads, potato chips ( made from boiled potatoes rather than raw sliced ones) , dalmoth, sevaiyan (vermicelli) etc. all being made at home. Almost all terraces in the neighbourhood would be covered with many of these items kept to dry before they were stored. Unfortunately, fewer and fewer homes make their stuff now, and most prefer to buy from sweet shops – with chocolates and dry fruits starting to edge out sweetmeats during Diwali, this doesn’t come as much of a surprise. Anyway, after many years outside India it was great to be back home for Holi to join the festivities and, more importantly, the feast. It was also pleasing to find that two things which will never be bought from a shop in my parents’ place, 20th century or 21st, are pickles and gujhias.

Bedmi, kaddu ki sabzi, aloo-sag and kathal do-pyaza

The menu for Holi lunch has remained the same since I could remember – bedmi and kaddu (pumpkin) ki sabzi, kathal (jackfruit) ka do-pyaza, aloo-saag, and mutton do-pyaza for carnivores.  (Jackfruit and mutton do-pyaza are made in the same way using whole spices and caramelising the onions for a sweetish taste, the texture of jackfruit making it the meat substitute for vegetarians long before we knew of soya nuggets in out parts).

While the lunch on Holi day is a feast, the main preparation relates to snacks – both sweet and savoury – served during Holi-milan in the evening and for a few days following Holi when friends and relatives visit each other. And gujhia remains the undisputed queen of these snacks. I have always felt that it is the whole process of making gujhias which is more interesting than the gujhia itself -  I have to confess that I am not a big fan of gujhias and only couple of homes where I find it tolerable other than my parents’.

Preparation of khoa (milk thickened to ricotta consistency) itself takes hours, and even if khoa is bought from a shop, just roasting it would take at least an hour. It is then mixed with some dried fruits, grated coconut, chironji etc. This forms the filling. Where people can’t afford khoa, it is substituted with suji (semolina).

Traditional ways of weighing the ingredients

Weights and Measures

For the pastry crust for gujhia precision is so critical that even my mom who talks about ‘andaz’ (guesstimate) whenever I ask her for a recipe also insists on 250 gm. moin (urdu for shortening) in 1kg flour!

Pastry that you can see through

The next step is to get a wafer thin crust that you can almost see through – such thin crust makes filling and frying both a delicate and slow process, one reason why most commercially available gujhias have a much thicker crust.

No one is too young to join in

And most importantly keep in mind that no one is ever too young to contribute to the process!

Gujhia Moulds

Light gujhias which a delicate crust

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3 Responses to Holi – Gujhias, and a Dash of Nostalgia

  1. pamela says:

    Gujhias look wonderful – could your Mum be persuaded to provide a full recipe?

  2. Siddhartha says:

    Sure, Pamela, but the problem always his when at some step or another, her ‘andaz’ (guesstimate) will come in play! Will mail it to you

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